English Welsh borders tour 2012

Every year for the past 4 years I've been on a mini tour with friends - I'll add the previous years blogs over the next couple of weeks - but here is a brief account of this years trip around the English Welsh borders accompanied by a short video shot by one of our group, Jez Keeling.

The ride was over 4 days in July.  There were 4 of us - David, Jez, Derek and me.  We started at Jez's house in Shrewsbury on the Thursday and rode to Bucknell in south Shropshire - we stayed in the campsite behind the Baron of Beef, a good field, flat and spacious. (http://www.baron-of-beef.co.uk/). I had the thickest burger ever and a couple of fine pints.  The evening was rounded of with a traditional sporting contest, darts and pool - I think I finished last in both disciplines.

Day 2 took us to Hay on Wye and Radnors End campsite, about half a mile out of town (http://www.hay-on-wye.co.uk/radnorsend/) - it was pretty much booked up but the site owner let us camp on his lawn!  We had a great time exploring the pubs in Hay and had an excellent curry at Red Indigo (http://www.redindigo.co.uk/).

On Day 3 we rode to Ludlow and Whitcliffe campsite (http://northfarmludlow.co.uk/whitcliffe.html) - a hilly mile outside town.  Dinner was fish and chips and a couple of pints - as you can see, during the whole trip, we were clearly eating for maximum performance.

The sites at both Hay and Ludlow were high on the hills overlooking the towns and it was great to have far reaching views - especially at Ludlow where we could sit outside the tents and soak up the view as the sun set.

Day 4 saw us ride back to Shrewsbury and the drive home.  We covered 148 miles.  The terrain was mixed with a fair few hills and the weather was excellent throughout.

Anyway a picture is worth a thousand words so here's Jez's excellent short video:

Brittany journal - day 14 - the end

6/6 - Day 14 – miles cycled = 2, total so far 409

I woke at 6.45 to light drizzle, which only lasted for 15 minutes or so.  I had tea (nothing for breakfast) and packed up to join John and Dawn for the short ride to the ferry terminal and a 9.30 departure.

John and Dawn - on the ferry

I had croissants and coffee at the ferry terminal café – croissants are a hard habit to break, before going through passport control.  Once through passport control I was sniffed by a drugs dog – I’m not quite sure what it made of me, I’m surprised it didn’t pass out, before joining a long queue of traffic.

 After a few minutes I realised that Id’ joined the queue of vehicles that were just arriving – I nearly re entered St Malo – I even managed to get lost on the last 500 yards of French soil.

The St Malo - Dinard ferry

I boarded the ferry, left my bike in the cargo hold and went up on deck to wave goodbye to France.  It had been a great couple of weeks.

The crossing home was super smooth and I arrived back in Portsmouth on time. The whole ferry experience added to the trip and I would thoroughly recommend Brittany Ferries.

Brittany journal - day 13

5/6 - Day 13 – miles cycled = 28, total so far 407

Slept well and woke with a slight hangover.  Breakfast was the usual tea and croissants.  It was heavy overcast and chilly for the first time.  I took my time packing up and said goodbye to Mike and Chris before heading off up the VV2 towards Dinard and the ferry to St Malo.

The ride was smooth and flat on a route I knew from travelling in the opposite direction on my first day.  Halfway to Dinard the heavens opened and delivered the first serious rain of the trip – it was like stair rods.

I arrived in Dinard just in time to catch the ferry across the Rance to St Malo.  On arrival I had a walk around the town – I was hoping that the rain would subside before I went to find the campsite.  3 hours later it was still lashing down so I decided to bite the bullet and find the campsite.  The site is on a headland just outside the main town, it’s a municipal with reasonable facilities (14 Euros).

 I pitched my tent and sat and waited for the rain to subside.  It didn’t.  I decided to go for a walk around the nearby old port.  I stopped for a coffee and got chatting to an elderly English couple who told me that the weather was due to get worse over the next few days – my plan was to arrive here today, day ride or explore St Malo tomorrow and then head home the day after – given the weather and the outlook I decided to change my booking at the ferry terminal and head home tomorrow instead.

I walked back to the campsite and met John and Dawn from Nottingham.  They had been away from the UK for 2 months riding recumbent trikes through Holland, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland and France.  They had covered nearly 2000 miles and were heading home tomorrow.

This was the first municipal site I’d stayed at.  It was a very large site and there were quite a few people about – its used as a convenient site by people before getting the ferry to the UK.  There were quite a few tents that had a permanent look about them too – I wondered if some people saw it as a low cost living option.

I walked to a local creperie for dinner.  It was still raining and the wind was getting up.  I had a chefs special crepe or gallette (I can never remember which is which), which was very nice, 2 scoops of cookie ice cream and a beer.  Back in my tent by 10, hoping for a good nights sleep – long day tomorrow.

Total miles today = 28

Brittany journal - day 12

4/6 - Day 12 – miles cycled = 35, total so far 379

Slept like a log and woke at 8 to dark grey skies.  Breakfast today was tea, orange juice and a ham and cheese baguette (almost a ‘continental breakfast’!).  I mooched around for a couple of hours before heading off across the river Rance towards St Suilliac and the Rance valley.

It was considerably cooler today and early on I got caught in a couple of short sharp showers.  Cycling on a load free bike felt great, even the hills felt easy.  Today being Monday, most places were closed and I had problems stocking up on food.  I did eventually find a boulangerie open in Chateauneuf d’ille et Villaine and I bought a flan (similar to a pizza) for dinner, 2 croissants for tomorrows breakfast and some milk.  

I then headed back to Dinan for lunch by the river (Ham, frites, coffee and a beer) before a couple of hours people watching and a steady ride back to the campsite.  I’d cycled 35 miles in all.

I decided it was time to wash my fetid clothes so made use of the campsites laundry (I had hand washed daily but seemed to be fighting a losing battle).  On my way back from the laundry I spotted a familiar face(s) – it was Mike and Chris – a real coincidence.  After catching up on the previous 4 days experiences we decided to go to a local bar tabac for a beer or two.

After dinner we wandered into Taden to a lovely little bar by the manoir, we had a few drinks and a great time.  Solo touring has its advantages – such as going at your own pace, stopping where and when you feel like it, eating whenever or wherever takes your fancy etc., but it can be a lonely thing and it was great to have company again.

I got back to my tent at around 11.30 feeling pretty squiffy – an excellent evening.

Brittany journal - day 11

3/6 - Day 11 – miles cycled = 41, total so far 344

I had a terrible nights sleep, even worse than the previous night.  Noisy children playing until midnight followed by a party in a marquee 40 yards from my tent (hidden over the cliff top) – the music didn’t even kick in until midnight – I’m not sure what time it went on until, 3am at the earliest.

I woke at 8 and the morning was cloudy and chilly.  I had a breakfast of tea and croissants (there is a clear theme emerging here) and then packed up and hit the road by 9.30.  My plan today was to head for Dinan and the campsite La Hallerais (where I spent my first night).  I took a circuitous and scenic route to Dinan and managed 38 miles.  The dull weather improved as the day wore on and by lunchtime it was sunny with scattered fluffy cloud.

I arrived at Dinan early afternoon and had a good explore. Dinan is a beautiful old place, full of cobbled streets and medieval timbered buildings – a real treat for the eyes and well worth a visit.

Afterwards I cycled the mile and a half along the river to the campsite, booked in and found a lovely flat pitch.  The site seemed really quiet after the last couple of days – perfect.

After setting up I cycled to the Port of Dinan on the river Rance for dinner (cheese omelette, salad, raspberry flan and beer) before cycling back for an early night.  I decided to stay for two nights and planned to take in a day ride tomorrow).

Brittany journal - day 10

2/6 - Day 10 – miles cycled = 38, total so far 303

I had a disturbed night sleep, the first on the trip.  This was due to noisy locals driving up and down road, behind a hedge, close by and by the arrival of a ‘spooky’ tent.

While I was out for dinner a small single skinned tent appeared, it was a small tent more suited to a child than an adult.  There was no car, no bike, nothing – just a small zipped up tent in the middle of the field – it just felt slightly weird.  I casually walked towards it as you do and when I got within a few feet it started shaking violently.  I ran back to my tent, sorry, walked casually back to my tent and sat looking at it for a while, convinced by now that it contained a murderer.

Given that there was only me and the spooky tent on the campsite it made me slightly wary – adding to my restless night.

I woke unmurdered at 7 and decided to push on along the coast to explore.  Breakfast was tea, a cereal bar and a peach.  After leaving the site I cycled along the seafront and climbed the steep hill out of town before stumbling across the obligatory boulangerie (2 croissants for additional breakfast and a baguette Americano for lunch).  The coast road was very hill and I was really feeling it – almost like I was deficient is something, low on energy despite feeling strong in the leg department (probably too much fat from the constant flow of pastry and a lack of fruit and veg were combining to grind me to a halt).

The coast road took me through several very busy tourist honey pots, including Erquy and the road to Cap Frehel and I decided to head back inland to avoid the hoards for a while.

It remained very hill and there seemed to be a permanent head wind, by the time I got to St Cast le Guildo I was done for.  I managed to find a site easily – a big family type international site (at 16 Euros the most expensive so far) – it was half full but still pretty noisy.

I set up before cycling to a nearby restaurant for dinner – A very good steak and frites accompanied by a couple of beers.  I felt a lot better with a full stomach.  I then went back to my tent to relax and take in the view. The site was on a hill and I had a fine view out over the estuary – by far the best pitch so far.  I settled down in my sleeping bag around ten and it rained lightly for half an hour – the first rain of the trip so far.

I cycled 38 miles today.

Brittany journal - day 9

1/6 - Day 9 – miles cycled = 40, total so far 265

I woke to a very misty morning after another peaceful night.  Had a lie in, tea, croissant and yoghurt in my sleeping bag.  Mike and Chris were headed towards the coast like me but were aiming for further east so I said my goodbyes and was up and my may by 9.30.  There was a chill in the air for the first time on the trip and so I needed to break out my jacket for the first half hour – up until now it had been 100% short sleeves.

I rode to Hillion on the coast to check out the cliff top campsites, it was great to see the sea.  The site looked excellent but I had only cycled 17 miles so decided to head further along the coast to see what I could find.  I arrived in Pleneuf Val Andre and found a nice campsite (8 euros).  

Val Andre is a lovely place.  Its rather like Llandudno only better.  Nice harbor, sweeping promenade, fine sand and a picturesque stone pier.  I cycled to the end of the pier and sat in the sun for an hour watching the fishermen catch fresh air.

After a good ride and walk around to explore I went to a pizzeria for a Calzone and a couple of beers.  

I found a rip in my tent when I got back to the campsite.  After examination, I think it was caused when the campsite owner cut the grass around my tent.  I think his mower must have thrown up a stick that took a glancing blow on the side of my tent causing a 4 inch tear.  I repaired temporarily it with the ever useful gaffer tape.

Thinking back to todays ride.  I tackled a very long steep hill with white painted names and words of encouragement on the tarmac as seen in the Tour de France.  I was determined to ride up it and not get off and push, thinking that if people raced up it then I should be able to crawl up it.  I succeeded.  I feel certain that there is no way I would have got up it with a full load prior to this tour.  I’m definitely getting more ‘cycle fit’ as I go along.  Also, I have been ache and pain free so far too – lets hope this continues.

I cycled 40 miles today.

Brittany journal - day 8

31/5 - Day 8 – miles cycled = 28, total so far 225

I had a broken nights sleep due to noisy animals and woke at 8 – latest so far. It was a dull start to the day but it was to clear up by lunchtime into clear blue skies with hot sunshine.  Had breakfast of tea and croissants (I’m now well and truly sick of croissants) and was on the road by 9.30 heading for the town of Moncontour and an open campsite.  Mike and Chris were heading the same way and so we cycled together.

We rode 28 hilly miles to the campsite after getting lost around Plemy (nothing to bothersome compared to early on – I’m quite used to getting lost now).

It was a very quiet municipal site on the edge of town, there were just 2 other people camping on the far side of the site.  After pitching we walked into town, 

Moncontour is built on a hillside and the streets are very steep and windy.  The place has a distinctly medieval feel – and this is echoed each year by their annual medieval festival.  It would be great to visit during the festival – I guess that would be the closest you could get to time travel.

 

After a couple of beers I left Mike and Chris to look for somewhere to eat.  Everywhere was pretty much closed so I went to the small Carrefour supermarket and bought far too much food for a picnic before heading back to my tent for a feast.

I retired to my sleeping bag at 9.30 feeling rather sick. 

Brittany journal - day 7

30/5 - Day 7 – miles cycled = 4, total so far 197.

I woke early to a grey sky and decided to stay for another day.  After tea and half a croissant I cycled into town with Mike and Chris, it was still remarkably quiet.  We went to the tourist Information office where the helpful woman behind the desk told us of an open campsite at Moncontour – about half way to north coast.  It was not a great distance but looked very hilly on the map.  I decided that that would be tomorrow’s destination.  We then went to the patisserie and the charcuterie to stock up on food for lunch, dinner and tomorrows breakfast before returning to the campsite.

I went for a walk around the lake (not the whole lake – it’s a 25km loop).  There’s a large dam (barrage) and I walked to take a look at that.  If you are into barrages (which I’m not) I’m sure it’s a very interesting one.  

After that I walked for a couple of hours through the dense coniferous woodland that surrounds the lake.  I came across some men using chainsaws to fell trees and then using big horses with harnesses to pull the trunks up through the woods to the footpath to form a large pile for later removal.  I saw loads of wildlife, red squirrels, mice, lizards, deer and loads of different types of birds.

I went back to the campsite and spend the afternoon reading.  The place is very tranquil (unless the outdoor centre next to the camp site lets the hoards of school kids out to play).  The sun came out again mid afternoon and it stayed hot and clear until dusk.  I had an early dinner and then got into my sleeping bag around ten in preparation for tomorrows hills!

I enjoyed my lazy ‘rest day’ but feel like I missed an opportunity to rack up some more miles.

Today’s mileage total is 4.

Brittany journal - day 6

29/5 - Day 6 – miles cycled = 55, total so far 193.

Another good nights sleep and another sunny morning.  I had tea and croissants and packed up.  The plan for today was to cycle along the Nantes Brest canal to Mur De Bretagne on the shore of Lac Du Guirledan – a lively looking place (according to the Rough Guide) approx. 45 miles away.  After saying my goodbyes I was away by 9.30. 

Apart from somehow getting lost at Pontivy and following the wrong canal for 3 miles all went well.  The Nantes Brest canal is truly beautiful and is rural France at its best – peace personified with mile after mile of stunning unspoiled countryside and abundant wildlife.  With my wrong turning I ended up cycling 55 miles – possibly the best 55 miles cycling I’ve ever done, I enjoyed every mile (even the 6 I did on the wrong canal).

Yesterday Scott told me of an open campsite and gave me directions.  It was easily found, a quiet site close to the lake (7 Euros and 1 Euro 80 for a well deserved almond magnum).  I’d half expected a call from Chris and Mike to say that they were headed my way and the call came late afternoon and they arrived early evening.

Mike and Chris

I rode into town expecting what the Rough Guide calls ‘a lively town’ to find everything closed – even the bars.  Bad news.  Back to the campsite to eat my emergency food – dried spag bol, emergency chocolate and half of my breakfast croissant.  After which Chris, Mike and I sat about talking about all sorts, including hamburger roundabouts, food and cycle and camping equipment (of which they have loads – including a kitchen sink!) before retiring to my tent at 10.45 to plan my next move.

I can either head north to the coast and crawl east or retrace my steps to enjoy another ride along the canal and more time in Josselin. Either way I will probably stay here for another night to explore the lake tomorrow (and to buy loads of food for tomorrow night in case the town is closed again).

Brittany Journal - day 5

28/5 - Day 5 – miles cycled = 22, total so far 138.

After another good nights sleep, only disturbed a couple of times by a distant dog barking, I woke to another sunny morning.  I had tea and decided to stay for another night.  This would give me more time to explore Josselin in more detail and then take in a short day ride.  

After a wash and brush up I cycled into town to collect breakfast (2 croissants) and a cheese and ham baguette for lunch before deciding to cycle along the towpath towards Pontivy to check out the route for tomorrow toward the Lac Du Guirlidan. 

Before setting off I happened across the Tour de Bretagne classic vehicle rally passing through town. I spent a really enjoyable hour watching 500 vehicles of all shapes and sizes pass by, along with loads of locals (it turns out that today was a national holiday).

I then set off on a 22 mile round trip along the Nantes Brest canal.  It was an excellent towpath, wide and smooth – perfect. I had lunch in the sunshine sitting by a lock on the way back – French baguettes are always something special, why can we get bread like that in the UK?

I returned to the campsite and paid another 6 euros for another night before heading back into Josselin to explore some more.  Its such a beautiful place and I’ll be sad to leave, I’ll definitely be back on day. 

By the river in town I met Mike and Chris from Poole.  They are cycling around Brittany for three weeks to mark their 60^th birthdays. We had a good chat about routes and campsites and then I discovered that they were heading to my campsite – result! company.

I had a good walk all around Josselin and had an excellent Caesar salad, beer and coffee in the square whilst people watching.  After sitting sunbathing and snoozing for an hour I headed back to the campsite.  

On the way back I bumped into a couple on a tandem recumbent.  Scott was from Melbourne Australia and Nikki was from San Francisco and they were headed to my camp site too.  They were cycling from Brest to Istanbul over 8 weeks on Eurovelo 6. It turns out that two Canadians and two Tasmanians had also arrived while I was away.  Add to that Mike and Chris and it had turned into an international cyclist meet all of a sudden.

I spent the rest of the day and the evening chatting and drinking with my new cycling buddies and had a lovely time – this was my first non-early night of the trip!

Side note: despite washing stuff as I go, both me and my belongings are starting to smell.